Wednesday, February 3, 2010

It's pretty hard to film when the cameramen are also the surfers, so we didn't get any clips from this spot, but check that left feathering out there in the background--we called it muscles--a big, deep, lurching left breaking over scattered rock reef shelves. This is where we had our first surfing experience in the north, six feet solid, cold, no one out except for a couple of harbor seals. Adam shined.


Big left, red with runoff. This was just a random spot we could just barley see from the road, so we got out and hiked up the headland. I still remember walking up to the cliffs edge, there was a huge seal colony outside the wave, logs and debris in the lineup, and no one around. Real man stuff.


"I don't know Adam, what do you think?"


Morning time camp shot. Cold, 40 degrees F--ready for some coffee, eggs, toast, and tubes. Note the perfect A-frame coming across our front porch.


I took this from my phone from inside the tent seconds after I opened my eyes from dreamland. Adam was still sleeping. I like zipping open sets. It's kind of like opening a box of wine.
Random right.


Wearing thick burlap kine sweaters, bearded, cold, and happy, we stumbled into this little fishing town for a taste of the local beer. I had a fine cod chowder, while adam opted for the Haddock.


A few words about camp: the woods were enchanted. Winds blew in from the north, and with them came rain and cold, and eventually... the night. In the night by the fire we relaxed and listened to the roar of the big northern waters, mists floated through--grey--we drank some dark beer and talked about the swell, and going further north. Sounds came out of the dark, whistling could be heard, and I felt like we weren't really by ourselves. Commando camping can be a bit unsettling at times--this night I slept in a deep puddle--I remember thinking it would be smart to dig out the rocks under my side of the tent, kind of make it nice and flat. The impression I left filled with about three inches of water--between that and the talking trees, I didn't sleep. And of-course Adam slept like a peach. Some long lefts and a 20 hour drive home followed.


Real adventure is not easy. One does not just go out for adventure, instead, one becomes captured... stuck... on a cliff, or in the cold, at sea, or in a desert, even, in a city--adventure begins when things go wrong--only then does the mind sit back and allow the spirit to lead. I didn't want to go on this trip, it looked too gnarly. Who heads north in the late fall? There was cold rain and wind and snow. There were cities, miles of roads, and moose. I didn't want to take on those challenges, I had become too safe, too smart. Too mindful. I thank Adam for making me go.

Saturday, January 30, 2010

OYYYYYY!



So I'm the cave brother, and i guess I'm supposed to post on this world wide webpage to help take the burden off Bri and keep it kinda interestin... don't have too much to say this time
around, which is probably a good thing for y'all but i do have some visuals
PHOTO ESSAY #1 SUPER AWSOME TIME!!!
I have no idea what a photo essay is but i figured i'd give it a shot.
C.B.

jonathan livingston seagull

tube time

winter time

a nice one

buenos noches

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

I just realized that there's not enough ripping on here lately...

Enter Mr. Jaime Hunter, perhaps the coolest person I know...










Sequence by Seth Stafford.

Some words: I really don't want to include words on this post cause there's just no way they could describe either Jaime, or this sequence going on here, but I just can't help but mention that this was a really fun day somewhere kinda near the outer banks, and I got a bunch of really good waves and just thought I was killing it, and I remember Jaime paddled up to me all tweaked and sunburnt and I asked him, " hey how was that last left you got?" and he replied, "oh! ah, man it was siiiiiiiick!--I pulled in and then just stayed in it forever!" And I remember thinking that it must have been a good wave, cause Jaime never really talks about how sick his waves were, I mean he does if you ask him, but he never really gets too proud, just kind of flies under the radar if you know what I mean. Anyway we got home and Seth showed us this sequence and I couldn't believe how sick it was--shot number 6 is so perfect--and it's funny cause I remember thinking that I would definitely see it in the mags somewhere, but sure enough I never did, why... because as far as the pop surf culture goes, if you aren't a poster-board for some company then you aren't a surfer worth mentioning, even if one of the best surf photogs of our time has a good shot of you. I guess it's better that way.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Reading a book, reading a quote--

I am reading a book about a guy who seeks out adventure by sailing a boat extremely far north. Into the Ice. The guy then lets the winter come and he tries to live through the winter. It's a good book--anyway that's not the point. The point is that at each chapter head the guy posts these quotes. And it's not like I haven't seen this before, lots of authors begin chapters with quotes, but this one is different. I find these quotes so evocative, usually the quote sort of alludes to what is to come in the chapter ahead, and thats it--I read the quote and then read the chapter and thats it. But these quotes are so good--every one of them--I want to post them all, I think I will.

Anyway, this one I have just read is why I'm posting--it gave me the inspiration to write this online, and to do a great many more things. In fact upon first reading this quote I decided that I would try a little experiment. I would try to spend the next few days aware of the quote, or rather of the ideals the quote suggests about who we are and how we chose to live, as I live and move through this life I have had the opportunity to choose.

I will tell you the quote now, but first I want to suggest that when you read it, read it slowly. I once wrote a ten page research paper on only two lines from the stanza of an ancient poem--(not only on the content of the sentences, but also on the meaning of each individual word in the sentence). As you read this quote, try to let each word register, try to slow down and take it all in--maybe even stop on a word before it has any meaning as a whole and just let your mind wander. Then put the words together, then go on.

the quote:

The most beautiful thing one can experience is the mysterious. It is the source of all true art and science. He to whom this reaction is a stranger--who no longer can pause to wonder and stand rapt in awe--is as good as dead, his eyes are closed.

I will let you guess who said this, you can post ideas in the comments box... don't cheat.

Monday, January 25, 2010

CAVEBROTHER


LET IT BE KNOWN THAT MY LITTLE BROTHER, OR "CAVEBROTHER" AS HE IS MORE POPULARLY KNOWN BY SOME, WILL BE TEAMING UP PROPERLY WITH US HERE IN THE CAVE.
CAVE BROTHER CATCHES BIG FISH.
CAVEBROTHER IS HAPPY TO CATCH FISH, FOR HE KNOWS HE WILL BE ABLE TO FEED HIS VILLAGE BACK HOME.
CAVEBROTHER IS THE REAL DEAL "MOST INTERESTING MAN IN THE WORLD."
CAVEBROTHER IS A MAN OF FEW WORDS, BUT WHEN HE DOES CHOOSE TO LAY DOWN SOME STORY, YOU CAN BET IT'S GOING TO BE WORTH LISTENING TO--WERE STOKED TO HAVE HIM ABOARD.