Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Pirate Jewel Water

The Pacific, as it meets the shores of the Hawaiian islands, can take on a variety of colors.  From the impressive dark almost purple-blue of the outer depths, to the dream-like sapphire of the outer reefs, and then in further where near shore shimmers of emerald and aqua blue contrast sharply against the dark black and red of the volcanic rock-reefs.  And while these spaces of color all catch my eye as I look out over the glimmering ocean I have come to know and love, I think it's the sandy spots I love most.  For it is in these spots where the real nature of the water-colors can shine and blend and shimmer and glitter into a medium that is quite dreamy, and moving, and desirable as a place for a swim.

So here's a new clip of Adam and I doing just that, unfortunately I can't seem to figure out how to compress the clip for maximum quality, but I think it's good enough to get a feel for what we've been up to.  

Enjoy...

Friday, November 5, 2010

R.I.P. Andy Irons

I'm not feeling too right to bring this onto the blog, I mean, I don't know it's not like I ever knew Andy Irons, but I have found myself to be really bummed about his passing. It seems like every one who rides waves feels the same way. The world can be so tragic sometimes, it's hard to learn that aspect of life, it's hard to come to terms with it.








I have to admit I have always secretly been a big fan of A.I.'s-- his style was so unique looking to me, I was instantly addicted to it when I first saw it in the 5'5 19' 1/4 movie. Especially the Waimea shore-break part. From then on out I always kind of quietly observed and became inspired by the genius of his surfing, it's spontaneousness, it's punk rock look, and it's Hawaiian bravado. I'm sad I never got to meet him, or surf with him. I'm sad for his friends. I'm sad for his family.



I'm going surfing tomorrow.