Sept. 27, Sunset beach HI

Coffee With Dad

Pretty much all my life my old mans been playin the guitar. He's got about 20 of 'em and they're all over the house, I guess so if he feels like throwing something down he can just grab one and go. Most times I'll be chillin reading or watching some movies or what not and here comes my Dad wearing nothing but a pair of board shorts and an acoustic guitar strapped to his neck saying, "hey Brian listen to this."

Yesterday I caught a clip of his wandering jamming over a hot cupa and a fresh sunday times...

King Stanley from Brian Herron on Vimeo.

Da New Cave

Cavebrother has done it, he's found our new cave. Located on the top of a volcanic ridge, apparently the cave is nice, free of bats and bears, and has an abundance good rocks around it which could be used to smash things.

Please enjoy a virtual tour of das cave presented to us here by the one and only Adam Ayers, who thinks he is funny when quite obviously he is not...

(cavebrother stands in the main entrance of our new home)

This photo demonstrates that there actually was a time when Adam was literally my "little" brother, and although that time seems to have come and gone (maybe not I think I'm just going to get my growth spurt a little late) this does not mean I will not be the one in charge of things around the house, for I am older and therefore wiser, also I am the natural alpha male mainly because of my sheer strength and power.

In any case I'm stoked, as the Herron brothers will be united again, and you can expect big things from us this winter as we are already planning many adventures and expeditions to some of the most beautiful, and most dangerous places on Oahu as well as new board designs including winged alaia's, rocket tow boards (for doing airs at phantoms), and body surfing expeditions all along the north shore. Banzai!

As you can see from this little text video I received from das Cavebrother yesterday titled, "Aloha From Pipe" he's already been making moves in da waves...

Parting shot: The virtual tour guide, Adam Ayers and his beautiful lady Katie Brown glowing at tongs.

b.

Catching eels

Been a heck of a transition from life-guarding to painting, went from having beautiful women offer me gifts of gold and jewels, to straight--dirtbag. Yesterday someone told me I look like I catch eels for a living.

Lying Down in the Tube

The hunt for Eye Gore swell went well, it was a fast paced trip to the south, packed with good friends, good close out tubes, and good southern food, plus a bonus magical mase session that I will never forget. All in all, me and the old man scored. Expect a short reel soon, but for now check out this sick boogie woogie vid I discovered on the inter net webbing-- boogers always catch a lot of slack for riding waves the way they do, but man if you really sit back and look at it for a second, boogie riding is rad!--how much fun does it look to just fly through tubes lying down like super man, it's really just body surfing with a little help. Here's to boogers!

Fit Full Rest

I'm not sleeping well. The transition from one life-style to another is always demanding on my brains and gray matter. Dreams of strange faces--bulging eye balls and turned down lips--wake me up every hour, on the hour. Worries about money, jobs, family, and friends have me sweating at two in the morning, kicking my feet, and twisting till I fall back into that strange place we all go in the night.

Lately all I've wanted to do is find surf. My brains need a shower.

Check em photos of Das Gimp absolutely charging Avalon on da Earl swell.

Gimp charging--Cave watching--screaming, "noooo, don't pull in!"

Gimp pulls in to an Avalon sand slab.

Das Gimp Rips.

We ended up scoring pretty good with Earl in-spite of missing some big surf down south, and aside from picking up a staffy looking infection in my leg in Cape May, I felt great satisfaction having hunted Earl with a good friend--feasting on the marrow of his barrel bones.

Now it's time to put the safari cap back on, I'm heading south with the old man to rendezvous with some Carolina boys to hunt for Igor, an overgrown Atlantic cyclops pronounced, --eye-gore-- by Doug Deegan. Check back for updates and happy hunting to all.

BH

Summer?

Summer is over. Where did it go? It left without saying goodbye, no? In any case the summer was a good one, a new one, for me. A summer spent outside the comfort zone of my usual doings--my usual wanderings--a summer spent in the sun, reading the Atlantic like a book and people-watching a people from another time and another place.

And I regret not meeting those people, not knowing those who came to graze in the little summer waves with their suspenders, cigars, cigarettes, aqua socks, sun-blocks, beach balls, and boogie woogie boards. How peculiar these people became to me as I watched them day after hot summer day, occasionally jumping down and running out into the water to pull one of their little ones out of a rip by the scruff of their neck, all the while their parents, back-beach, obliviously smoked cigarettes and ate ham sandwiches--ham sandwiches--baking themselves like chocolate chip cookies these people approached the water with a style so bizarre to me that I became fascinated with it.

I was amazed, and eventually envious at how much joy they could find in the smallest pulse of a wave as they would hop on with their boogie woogie board stretched way out in front of them always dragging their bodies like anchors end up on the sand in front of the stand like a shiny seals smiling and laughing and using archaic expressions like, "yahoo," or ,"by golly that was a hoot!" They had so much fun, these people from a different land, almost as if they were from a different time, from a time when people would wear britches in the water and use cameras that popped and shot smoke to make photos.

But now its over, what an experience, I feel like I've learned a lot, but what I value most from this life-guarding experience is the sense of having accomplished something I set out to do, the challenge I did not back away from, and the friends I made along the way. I know that sounds sentimental and perhaps a little fluffy, but I met some really cool people up there on that stand.

Ok so now I'm off too HI, but not before one last east coast adventure, I have a meeting this friday somewhere south of here with a new client named Igor... Stay tuned for an Igor hunting road trip video. After that It's off to Oahu where Cavebrother is holding it down, studying hard, surfing when he can, and occasionally spending some time with his newest passion, the guitar.

Check em one new movie, Adam on da guitar while I catch a wave at leftovers last spring...

Enjoy

HI from Brian Herron on Vimeo.