Just watched some sick surfing on surfline. Couldn't help but smile--check out the Honolua Bay vid, some big boys gettin shacked and lovin it--it made me feel like surfing again, and that feels good.
Heading up north tomorrow, maybe for some windy Lani's, or sunset point, or maybe I can just find some little nook wave, well see, either way it's not going to be the same up there now that Colin's gone over to California. I was pretty lucky to have him coach me into the vibe up there on the north shore this spring--I learned a lot from him--including everything from how to properly get pounded at sunset, to how to catch a football while riding a wave on a stand-up boogie, not to mention how to negotiate his old mans, "shenanigans." In any case, in-spite of all the tomfoolery those guys are good people--real good, almost like southern people, but from the north like me. Here's to a rad spring...
Check this little Colin clip--i've got lots of em, so keep your eyes peeled--his surfing is pretty dynamic--big boards, small, fins, no, foam, wood, whatever, the kid can pretty much ride anything, and rip, not to mention charge like a freaking humpback during mating season, check...
quality's kind of shot, cause I had to upload the file straight to da blog, i promise it'll get better in the future.
And here's a couple of shots of the Irishman in da tube--backdoor.