Adam and I had the best surfing experience of our lives yesterday. We rode some big waves together. He's getting pretty darn good--Adam--we both learned a lot. Mostly, it was just fun though. It was ten feet Hawaiian. Lefts. Outer reef. Perfect.
This is kind of what the waves we surfed looked like.
I don't know why the text turned blue now after uploading that drawling, but I'm just gonna leave it like that if thats ok with you. Anyway, yeah we were on top of the world yesterday after that session. We both got barreled and did big fades and drew big kine lines. It was new territory for us because we became sort of comfortable. We switched back and forth between the 9'2 Owl shaped Brewer single fin and the big 7'6 Tokoro pipeline gun. The Tokoro was a bit difficult at first, but if you took off in the right spot it was doable. Watching each-other paddle into waves was exciting. I remember watching Adam paddle into a particularly sweet inside eight footer. He was on the Yellow Brewer and inside the little pack of guys surfing with us, which is taking a chance because if he didn't catch the wave he risked being caught by a set. But he caught it. It was inside and real fat and doubling up. I had caught a wave on the Tokoro and was paddling back out and I came over a hump and saw him making these big, huge, open ocean paddle strokes with his head down. As he started to get sucked up the face of the wave I started yelling, "c-mon Adam, get it Adam!" but he couldn't hear me cause he was real far away. He kept paddling like that until he was right in the lip of this solid eight footer and I didn't think he was going to get it, but it doubled up and pitched and as it it did he popped up into this big wave ninja stance and just stuck the hell out of the drop. As he loosened up a bit and started his bottom turn I was pretty proud of him. It was a really sick wave.
I got obliterated on one. It was a solid one, not a set, but a double up like Adams. I was on the Tokoro and behind this big bowl section and the thing started bottoming out real hard. As I was trying to make up my mind wether to pull in or low line it just outside the lip line the lip connected with me right around my knees and flicked me off my board like you would an ant from your forearm. It was very rapid and violent. I kind of skipped for a second and I remember hoping that my board wouldn't hit me then I was underwater and cart-wheeling pretty hard. Then I kind of stopped and I was deep. I knew this was the worst wipeout I have ever had and I tried to relax and not be scared. I went to my leash cause in all that foam and with so little air it's tough to swim up. I got up and made sure to get a real breath before I checked for another wave. There wasn't one and I was stoked because I survived a fle-flicker style wipeout on a medium sized big day.
