When I was a kid I became obsessed with the act of riding waves. I can still remember what surfing was like to me then, and how pure the experience was before I became the jaded water person I am today. I remember mostly the smells of things. The smell of wax and the sound it made in the middle of the night as I waxed up a board, too excited about the morning to be able to sleep. Man I miss being that excited about tomorrow. And I can remember the surf shops, how magical they were to me with all their cases of stickers and wax-- surfboards hung up on the ceilings like stars so mysterious and magical--and real surfers with long hair and early 90's grunge looks influenced by guys like Eddie Vedder and Kurt Cobain who gave the whole world this deep emotional undertone of cool that I instantly became enamored with. I did a lot of stuff when I was a kid; rode bikes, rode dirt-bikes, played sports, did Tae Kwan Do with my Dad, played with my friends, the list goes on and on, but I never really attached myself to any of this stuff, then I caught a wave on a surfboard and I have never come across a better way to identify myself since.
The funny thing about all this is my Dad's response. Now, don't get me wrong, he liked the beach and cruising in the water, but he didn't take to surfing like I did back then, he didn't let himself understand it because he was so driven by other things like being a good family man and playing his guitar. It's funny, some of the most poignant memories I have of growing up a surfer is being pissed at my Dad for not letting me go, for not understanding that surfing was not a want, but a need. And again, don't get me wrong, pops was a great supporter of my surfing, but he was also a great supporter of something I have always lacked in--responsibilities.
I can vividly remember this one swell when I was around, I don't know, maybe 13--in my mind it was sick, blue, warm, head high, no one out, and all my friends calling and networking all morning on how we were going to get to the beach to surf, and I couldn't go, why, I had to rototill the whole yard with my Dad. Awe, I remember being so pissed at him as he taught me one of my first and most important lessons about surfing which is: there will always be another wave. Anyway what I'm getting at is now a days all my Dad wants to do is go surfing. Ha, and I hear him gripe all the time about having to cut the grass, or work on a car or fix something in the house, because "110 is going off right now Brian we should be out there," ha, he's become obsessed, and just doesn't want to do any of that other stuff anymore, he just wants to go surfing because now, he truly is a surfer.
The old man's got a pretty good style, check out the tally ho around ten seconds into this clip courtesy of Dave Mccarty.
Hahahaha, the music is awesome...
Happy Birthday Dad.
