Headed up to the country today, rode some waves at sunset in the morning--fun swells--got my ears cleaned for free. But it was session number two that's got me grinning--paddled out at off the wall with Colin.
Untitled from Brian Herron on Vimeo.
Snagged a couple of rights and realized Colin had moved down to Pipe. It was pretty small, like 3-5, kinda bumpy too, the crowd was minor, so I worked my way over there. Got in the pack and did a little jig. Got into position for a set, paddled, paddled, got in the lip and thought, "oh, ah I don't think I'm going to catch this wave after all, I'll just pull back, oh wait, oh ah I'm in the lip, oh shit, oh no, oh god no..." I would describe going over the falls at pipe like this: get a hose, then get up on top of a wall, this one was about ten feet tall, make sure the ground under the wall is concrete, ok, now splash some water onto the concrete with the hose, make a puddle, ok now jump onto the puddle.But for real today was a tough day for my family. Today marks the one year anniversary of my grandfathers passing, that is, my mothers father...
Fred Patrick Dunn
The guy was made out of steel, no... he was made out of iron, raw iron. I dedicate my big wipeout to him, I'm so very proud to be his grandson.
